Día de las Velitas: Week 248

Dia de las Velitas celebration in Buga, Colombia

Día de las Velitas, Day of the Candles, is an important holiday in Colombia that celebrates the immaculate conception of the Virgin Mary. While some cities like Medellin and Villa de Leyva hold massive public displays, it is the kind of holiday that is best enjoyed in the barrios far away from the commercial centers.

While in Buga, Barret and I were invited to a family event in Divino Niño, a working-class neighborhood with pink and yellow candy-striped curbs. It was the eve of Día de las Velitas, which officially is December 7th, but the night before is often when the largest neighborhood celebrations take place.

The small candle shop across the road was doing business long into the night. The store to the right was closed, but the shopkeeper sat outside with his family and the stereo equipment he had bought for his wife.

He’d had been so proud of the present he’d given that it was played at full volume for two straight days. It drove the neighbors crazy but they reluctantly endured it. After an hour of sitting across the road, my ears were ringing.

From our curbside couch, Barret and I watched families stroll up and down the streets and motorcyclists dodge fireworks as they wound through the neighborhood. All the sidewalks for miles around were lined with faroles, paper lanterns.

Culebra firework being set off on Dia de las Velitas: Buga, Colombia

The BBQ in front of us was roasting up the last of the chicken when a culebra was rolled out in the middle of the road. The firework is named after a snake because it’s a long string of explosives that happens to begin very loudly and finish even louder. The anticipation of the finale chased most sensible people inside.

At the end of the night Barret and I caught a taxi back to Buga Hostel. The closer we got to the center of town and the basilica, the fewer decorations there were. By the time we stepped out of the taxi, the neighborhood was silent. If there hadn’t been a few burnt out faroles on the sidewalk, the few other travelers in the hostel would have thought that I’d just made up the whole holiday.

About: Día de las Velitas

Faroles lining the streets for Dia de las Velitas: Buga, Colombia

Chiang Mai: Week 140

The Iron Bridge under seige during Yee Peng: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Bangkok was in the midst of a revolution; Chiang Mai was in the midst of war. Rockets blew divots out of the banks of the Ping River while the trees were pocked marked with self-immolating lanterns.

Across the chaos spanned the Iron Bridge. The local teenagers who overran it were clumped along the rails like caviar, tossing fireworks into the river and at each other. The most popular firework was handmade and tied with a red plastic cord to the end of thin reed.  Notoriously inconsistent, sometimes they exploded as soon as they were lit while other times they shot across the sky.

Local teenagers gathering on the Iron Bridge during Yee Peng: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Loi Krathong is a Buddhist holiday the falls on a full moon between the October and Novemeber. Loi means to float while Krathong refers to the decorative float that is usually made from biodegradable materials like banana leaves.  During Loi Krathong, thousands of candlelit floats are released into the Ping River and the canal around the old city walls. While it is a national holiday, only in the north has it become synonymous with silly amounts of fireworks and the local Lanna tradition of Yee Peng: the lantern festival.

A bar on the the banks of the Ping River where people launched their krathongs: Chiang Mai, Thailand

While I waited at the foot of the Iron Bridge to send off my krathong, I pulled a piece of paper out of my pocket. It was the Loi Krathong song translated into English:

November full moon shines

Loi Krathong Loi Krathong

And the water’s high in local river and the klong

Loi Loi Krathong Loi Loi Krathong

Before I could finish I was distracted by a woman’s scream. She was ten feet in front of us and her hands were covering the side of her face. “She was hit,” my sister observed. “A firework right to the cheek and it’s the one night I didn’t bring my med kit.”

The small handmande fireworks that are so popular during Yee Peng: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai was established in 1296. Today it’s one of the most culturally important cities in Northern Thailand and also one of the most popular cities on the tourist trail. People who knew it ‘way back when’ might mourn the modernization and the volume of tourists, but neither of those detract from the city. It’s not hard to dig behind the tourist façade; all you need is a moped and time to kill.

Krathong that washed up along the banks of the Ping River: Chiang Mai, Thailand

One afternoon my sister and I were wandering around when we passed the Chiang Mai Technical College. The entire school was out in the courtyard inflating giant handmade lanterns. An electric fan first puffed up the lantern and after a few minutes one of the kids thrust a flaming torch inside. Right before the lantern was released, fireworks were attached and their long fuse lit.

Students inflating their handmade lantern at the Chiang Mai Technical College during Yee Peng: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Most of the lanterns rose high over the city, some collapsed, a few burst into crackling flames over the crowd- the announcer seemed to enjoy the failures the most.

Even without the festival, there was so much to do in Chiang Mai. Tuesday night my sister and I went to the Kalare Boxing Stadium which was only a stadium by name. In reality it was a large outdoor canopy behind the Night Bazaar.

A Muay Thai Fight at the Kalare Boxing Stadium: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Before each match, the Muay Thai boxers performed a traditional ceremony. They began by visiting all four corners of the ring to claim their territory. This is called the Wai Khru. Afterwards is the Ram Muay, a dance which shows respect for the person they are fighting as well as for their teachers.

After watching the dance off, I picked a winner and waved 200 baht at the wandering bookie. He had heavy, puffy eyelids and a dingy pink shirt. The overall impression he gave was that of a contentedly drunk person.

A slow tempo began and steadily intensified until it suddenly crashed, ending the round. I won my first bet, but lost the following three. I couldn’t help but feel that my win had been a carefully calculated strategy. Bookies, I came to realize, only took bets that worked in their favor.

An outdoor pavillion along the Ping River: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Because Loi Krathong and Yee Peng bring so many people to the city, the festival lasts about a week and for 2013 it ended on Monday with the Grand Krathong Procession. It was the last of the five scheduled parades and the only one to get rained out.

Loy Krathong Grand Procession: Chiang Mai, Thailand

The parade was filled with perfectly coiffed hair and youthful faces. One particularly large group sponsored by AirAsia was just a procession of beautifully dressed couples, each followed by a shirtless and shoeless boy holding a canopy over their heads. A young guy with a loose pony tail walked alongside the procession and dabbed the sweat off the ladies’ brows. He didn’t bother with the awkwardly pubescent boy-servants.

Loy Krathong Grand Procession: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Like many of the events, they proved to be so popular that it was difficult to control the crowds. A ceremony at Wat Phan Tao was completely overrun with over-zealous amateur photographers. On the other hand, the temple next door was completely empty.

Wat Phan Tao - Yee Peng Ceremony: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Wat Chedi Luang was originally completed in the mid-15th century and is such a sacred place that no visitor is allowed up it. Most of the monks aren’t allowed either, however during Yi Peng it kind of became target practice for novice monks with itchy fingers.

Wat Chedi Luang - young monks during Yee Peng: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Irreverent, rambunctious, rollicking; the novice monks were an incongruous mixture of future religious leaders and uninhibited children all in one. They threw firecrackers across the courtyard and (accidentally) onto unsuspecting pedestrians. Their lanterns floated onto temple roofs and burst into eco-conscious recycled-paper fireballs.

In the grand scheme of things, it makes more sense if you view the monastery as a means for education. Earlier that week Nan and I had visited Wat Chedi Luang for the Monk Chat program. It was an outdoor courtyard where monks could practice their English with tourists.

Wat Chedi Luang - young monks during Yee Peng: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Jade, a young monk around twenty years old, spoke very quietly and paused often to choose the right word. The only time he seemed confused was when my sister told him how much a year’s worth of tuition at Harvard cost. Jade quickly punched some numbers into his phone and handed it over to us. “2,000,000 baht…” He shook his head, “I could be a doctor with that much money.” His colleague’s degree cost 7,000 baht a year.

While I already knew that boys were sent to the monastery because of poverty, I did not realize that they also had access to university education and were able to leave the monastery. Oddly enough, it reminded me of a popular education-incentivized program in the US: the military.

Wat Chedi Luang - young monks during Yee Peng: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Despite how lucky I felt to have walked through Wat Chedi Luang that night, I don’t want to give the impression that the best events are always off the radar. Sometimes you want as many people as possible- especially for the Yee Peng Sansai Ceremony.

The night sky just before the lanterns were released for the Yee Peng Festival: Chiang Mai, Thailand

The ceremony, which pays homage to the Lord Buddha and his dhamma teaching, is free and takes place on the grounds of the Mae Jo University. There is another called Yeepeng Lanna International that costs USD $100 and is geared only towards tourists.

The ceremony was fairly lengthy and conducted entirely in Thai by a monk with a peaceful voice. When the chanting finished, the call was given to light the lanterns. All of the Dhammachai lanterns were the same; Thai Industrial Standard 808/2552: 90 cm diameter, recycled tissue paper, a few strips of bamboo and a few heat proof threads. The wick was a disk of compressed paper. The lantern felt more fragile that an eggshell when we held it, but it was surprisingly durable.

Tourists holding their lanterns during the Yee Peng Lantern Festival: Chiang Mai, Thailand

Grey smoke slowly filled the interior cavity and smoothed out the wrinkled paper. When the lanterns were buoyant, a canon rang and each one was released at once. They quickly rose and spread out in the sky like jellyfish drifting in an ocean current. I wasn’t the only one who let out a gasp; my sister quietly teared up.

Yi Peng Lantern Festival: Chiang Mai, Thailand

About: Chiang Mai

About: Yee Peng Lanna International

About: Monk Chat Programs

About: Thai Festivals

How to get to the Kalare Boxing Staduim: Cnr Thapae Road & Changklan- behind the Night Bazaar in the direction of the Ping River

Yi Peng Iron Bridge Taxi

International Fleet Review: Week 134

A page from the Sydney Mail, published on 8 October 1913, shows crowds watching HMAS Australia at her moorings. (Royal Australian Navy)

One hundred years ago the HMAS Australia sailed into the Sydney Harbour. It was a momentous occasion for the fledgling country and thousands of people gathered to see the new Australian Fleet Unit.

In order to mark the 100th anniversary of that occasion, the navy orchestrated an International Fleet Review with helicopter displays, 21-gun salutes, and a military band rendition of current pop songs.

“WHO LIKES PINK?” the singer caterwauled as she stomped her feet and clapped her hands. She was the rare kind of artist that could transform a bad song into an overwrought opera.

“Oh YEAH,” a female audience member replied, her enthusiasm captured on a stranger’s iPad. She was in her mid 20s and dancing in front of the stage in baggy clothes and a baseball cap. I wondered if she really did like the music or if she was the singer’s friend in civilian clothes.

The Opera House steps were packed and all the best views had been claimed for hours with tripods and cameras. Barret and I had an hour to kill, but the food and bathroom lines were so ridiculously long that it just wasn’t worth leaving our cramped spot- besides, the band was now covering the best of Justin Beiber.

While the pebbly texture of the steps pressed into my ankles and my feet lost circulation, I reflected upon the simpler times when one could rock up to the quay on a horse and buggy ten minutes before the ships entered the harbour. Not that I knew what it was like to find a good spot so easily, but I can imagine. How different these public events must have been when people didn’t need plastic wrist bands to get close to the action.

The only reason I was even allowed to enter the cordoned off zone around the Opera House was because I had won tickets to a graphic novel festival. Once the lecture ended, I was urgently ushered out of the Opera House but allowed to stay in the area with the military band (now covering Miley Cyrus).

International Fleet Review 2013: Sydney Harbour, Australia

My spot wasn’t worth that kind of auditory torture until a bunch of disgruntled tourists and amateur photographers decided to break past a barricade. With minutes until the start of the fireworks there was suddenly a void of people right up front on the balcony railing- the part of the steps that people were allowed to watch the show. Sensing my opportunity, I rushed forward and set my tripod up right behind the balding head of a 5’7” man. A few minutes later the gate crashers were kicked out of the restricted area and stuck at the back of the crowd.

Yes I had a better view, but halfway through the show I noticed a dark dome-shaped smudge in the bottom corner of every image.  That’s when I hoisted my camera above the crowd and produced my next series of pictures at crooked angles. It wasn’t my finest hour of photography, but the night wasn’t really about my photos or anybody else’s. It was about Australia, how much the country has matured within the last century, and about how much better fireworks look in the Sydney Harbour than they do anywhere else in the world. Not even Prince Harry could distract the crowd from that.

About: the International Fleet Review

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